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#46
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__________________ -Matt |
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#47
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| With the "whispering", I was NOT directly pointing to you, Matt. But there are plenty of hush-hush retrieving methods out there, there's no denying it, and that's what this thread was originally about. Quote:
__________________ Laurie & Cub CDX RN NA CGC ^Hubie^ CD CGC, ^Ilsa^ CDX CGC, ^Mia^ CGC |
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#48
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So these dog still have a "choice" even after the compulsion is applied. What have you gained? Can you say the failure rate (meaning the dog made the wrong choice) with compulsion is that much lower than with methods that don't rely on compulsion??? Dawn + Osa U-CD Cammcastle's Mystic Riven CDX OAC OJC OGC OAJ NA TT CGC http://members.aol.com/dplantier http://members.aol.com/rottweilerworld |
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#49
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| miabella, yes there are PSD/Sport Dogs.... good ones.. and the Original Post was about a "FORCED RETRIEVE" which is what I am still talking about. just a different version. DNeff, we could honestly sit here and compare anecdotal evidence all day long... I will say this. if all else is equal, training skill, timing, and time involved.. and we are using cloned dogs.. yes, the training program that makes "good" use of compulsion will be more consistant... perhaps you will get some performances better from the "positive" method... but at some point, it will breakdown.. it may come back.. but the breakdown will happen.
__________________ -Matt |
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#50
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| There are different approaches to the retrieve, dogs differ! Applied correctly to the dog in question and considering what the dog has to offer will determine your approach not only to create the desire but also the attitude and consistency. A very good retrieve through motivation can be improved through the right application of compulsion with the right dog in the right scenario and compulsin and motivation split up into different areas of the retrieve. Is what you have satisfactory for the level at which you compete, what is your dog capable of? Can the dog work positively through a fairly good retrieve in order to be even better? I always believe in balance creating the desire to teach, driving for motivation and then cementing. Through balance you should obtain the best results.
__________________ Don't get caught in the STORM! Chanteur Zega ITT1 100%, ITT2 97% Nero vom Hoch Constantia BH, ScHIII Dante of Belgrisse, watch this space! :-) Last edited by Storm; 10-15-2003 at 04:03 PM. |
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#51
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IMO this is the order that most dog obedience should be trained. 1. Create a full positive association with the work through positive reinforcement. Typically the first association with something is usually the strongest and longest lasting. (unless of course you make the situation VERy unpleasant then that will probably override a lot. ie: single event learning. But you'd also be amazed how effective the first impression is that if you have a great association with the work the and you mess up a couple of times the classically conditioned attitude will not necessarily go away immediately.) But still not limiting to one environment but generalizing the dog with positive reinforcement through many different environments. And after a bit of work, implementing NRM's is not unusual. 2. I personally like go into the second stage through lightly uncomfortable negative reinforcement for the case of resiliency in correction (whether it's on the buckle, choke, remote collar, etc.). Still using positive reinforcement to reward desired behaviors. Because learning happens best with as least stress as possible. I like to initially apply the low level aversive in a low stimulating environment so the dog can think through the aversive and learn the exercise from a different angle instead of focusing on the event of a very impressionable aversive. The dog will go through this stage for a while. 3. Now the dog should be pretty consistent with everything. Negative reinforcement is removed and positive correction in consequence only for not performing is in effect. But because the dog has gone through a healthy stage of negative reinforcement the dog will know exactly what to do when it gets a firmer correction. Reward still of course has play in the game. This process in my opinion covers much more stimuli in the process of generalization. And creates a much thicker groove/richer connections in the dog's mind for the behavior. *** Side note: Right now, I'm doing sessions with my older male in bitework and ole' Mattweiser as the helper where my dog is being negatively punished (not receiving the bite/ withholding reward) for undesireable behavior. If my dog could talk I'm sure he'd ask me to correct him and get it over with but I don't. Do I love dogs? Hell yes. Does that mean they should never be punished or corrected in anyway. Hell no. It's part of communication. |
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#52
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I see plenty of compulsion trained retrieves failing in the ring. Are you so sure they would be more successful? The dogs I see either making it or not making it in the ring have more to do with the trainers than the method, be it compulsion or non-compulsion. I'm not convinced that a complusion trained retrieve is any more reliable or will get you any more points. Even with an outstanding handler and trainer I still have seen the compulsion trained retrieve fall apart. Hey, maybe it's me, I've seen the other side and it looks pretty darn good. Dawn + Osa U-CD Cammcastle's Mystic Riven CDX OAC OJC OGC OAJ NA TT CGC http://members.aol.com/dplantier http://members.aol.com/rottweilerworld |
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#54
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