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#16
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He might have a lessened Response to the clicker, due to his stress/fear/nerves, but he will still view it as a reward, not an annoyance... since when are dogs annoyed by food??? :) Do not misunderstand, you can stress a dog to the point that he won't accept a food reward, but that doesn't mean he doesn't ever want food again.... just that the particular situation was too much for him..and even the food was not enough to overcome his "issues". This might be what you are referring to above...
__________________ -Matt |
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#17
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__________________ Michela & Diesel |
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#18
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| Michela, you deffinately need to stop that running around with the dumbell... if you don't want to "correct" him, block the "other" choices....set the jump up in the hallway (I know this may not be practical, but I think you get the point ;) )
__________________ -Matt |
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#19
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| If you can't do what Mattweiser suggested, use a long line. Try to place the jump between two trees that are close together. If you don't have a spot where both sides can be blocked, then one side is fine and just have someone stand on the other side (not too close) Start him with the lowest level on the jump. Then as he begins to understand what you are asking of him, you can add another level. Having someone else help with the long line helps as well. Personally, I do not jump my dog at the highest level too much. A few times so that he gets the idea of how high to jump and then practice when preparing for a trial. |
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#20
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Our trainer is one of those guys who applies a lot of stress then relieves it. I can't imagine using that style on any dog other than a GSD, although he did have some success with a Doberman. This Doberman hated tracking with a passion but he was easily at the Sch III level in Protection and Obedience. On his Sch A, I think he scored a 198 out of 200. On this Doberman's first Sch I attempt, he scored a ZERO in tracking. Then our trainer applied brute force to his tracking and a couple months later he scored an 80-something on the track. The dog has now been placed in a friend's home where he can live in peace. When our trainer went to visit him, the dog was stressed out as soon as he saw him at the door and very happy to see him leave. That's not exactly my style. My dog couldn't handle the pressure. When our trainer trains certain dogs, it's not a pretty picture, but the bottom line is that it works for him, and it works for a lot of other trainers in the sport, too. I don't do things exactly the way he does, but I take in the knowledge that's beneficial to me. That's also the philosophy of most of the people in our club. In fact, most our dogs have learned the retrieve motivationally, and some of our members use the clicker quite a bit. |
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#21
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__________________ -Matt |
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#22
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Well, how about this: "Hup" "Fetch" "Hup", then "Here"- treat in hand- hopefully automatic sit- "Leave it" and dumbell-for-treat exchange. I remember Judi writing that she teaches a motivational retrieve, and then at the end of it she inserts "Oh by the way, you have no choice." I guess we should be working on leash for this? I wasn't. teehee.
__________________ Michela & Diesel |
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#23
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| Wow Ramon, that's quite a story. I can't really imagine my training director doing this with my dog. A few weeks ago we were doing compulsive heeling through group and the director wasn't happy with the hardness of the corrections I was giving, so he stood to my right and took the leash, gave a hard correction, and my dog stepped towards him and snarled. It's interesting that you say he only uses these methods on GSDs and the one Doberman. I've never seen a dog worked like that before.
__________________ Michela & Diesel |
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#24
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If a dog snarled at him for giving a hard correction, his solution would either be a hard stick hit to the side of the head or extra juice on the e-collar. One thing I do agree with is that the dog has to know who's boss. If your dog ever snarls at you for giving a hard correction, you have to stop that behavior quickly so he doesn't get in the habit. After that, you might want to reconsider what you just did. For some dog and handler teams, it's a not a good idea to bring out handler aggression in the dog, especially if the handler is not the "fighting" type. However, if it does happen, you can't back down. |
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#25
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The only time I experienced anything close to handler aggression on the field was a looong time ago, we were practicing sits in the snow. My dog didn't want his precious behind to get cold and wet, and he refused. When I gave him a correction, he turned his head around and made an irritated "pi$$ off!" vocalization at me. My trainer had me string him up until he complied. It hasn't happened- to me- again.
__________________ Michela & Diesel |
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#26
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#27
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| GenHannibal- OK, great! Thanks!!!
__________________ Michela & Diesel |
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#28
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My trainer is a big husky guy who doesn't take crap, so he always wins when he gets into it with his shepherds. If that doesn't describe you, then it's best to avoid getting into the situation. |
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#29
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| Fortunately, there aren't too many dogs you have to do that with. Unfortunately, there are too many people who are willing to go that far with any dog to accomplish their goals. That is where I have a problem with that type of training. I will have to say, that with my first Rottie, after we did the forced retrieve, he had a whole new respect for me!;) However, whenever he would even "hear" the trainer that assisted me.... (Even years later). The only thing the trainer would say is "ya better have a good hold of him!" That is one thing that Rotties have, is an excellent memory. |
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#30
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Ramon, not to start a personal thread here, but I would question your trainer from a behavioral standpoint, as to why he believes that issuing stick hits to the head is an appropriate correction for handler aggression from a working dog. I would bet that any dog that your TD has "trained" could be run off a field with the right helper....
__________________ -Matt |
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