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#1
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| Sch 1 dumbbell question... Rocky is doing good on the retrieves, but he doesn't always grab the dumbbell by the 'bite-bar'. Sometimes he just grabs it by the end. What are some tricks to get him to consistently bite it by the bar? Thanks...Skip |
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#2
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| I suggest you don’t give him the opportunity to "smoke cigar". Stop throwing the dumpbell. Let him sit in front of you while you hold the dumpbell and give the command. When he has a good deep and correct bite praise him and start playing. (Be patient, it takes time to brake a bad habit like smoking cigars :) )
__________________ Control and obedience is directly proportional to a dog’s freedom. |
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#3
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| thanks... I just started using the dumbbell, so right now he grabs it most of the time by the bar...but once in a while by the end. Someone at the club suggested wrapping the ends with aluminum foil. I'll use some other object for awhile for retrieving. I'll try your suggestion of just using the dumbbell as a training object to get him to use the proper bite. |
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#4
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| How was the retrieve taught? Motivational(positive reinforcement) or Forced? Suggestions would be different. |
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#5
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| My experience is there are no short cuts!!! I have seen so many “attempts” and queer dumbbells (e.g. metal at the ends, hollowed out to suit a sausage ) and when you some day enter a trail, you can’t use any “tricks”.Since you just started training with the dumbbell you have all opportunities to do it right from the beginning: http://www.rottweiler.net/forums/sho...ght=retrieving http://www.rottweiler.net/forums/sho...ght=retrieving Do a “retrieving” search and you will find lots of other threads.
__________________ Control and obedience is directly proportional to a dog’s freedom. |
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#6
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| I suggest making the bite bar more palatable to the dog, i.e. wraping it in some type of leather or tape so that it gives soem bite satisfaction. Use the training dumbell frequently at first and then use a plain one intermittently, gradually working it in until proper grip becomes ingrained.
__________________ Semper Fi, MuckDogs |
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#7
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....motivational....still a fun game for him. |
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#8
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#9
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| Make sure you get a positive response, short and sweet, and finish with the dog still "enthusiastic" being motivational. If the dog tires and decides this is bull........................ with no further inclination, this is a problem and will adopt an attitude of, I have had enough, sooooooo keep the dog in "drive", cause if he "gives-up" then you start to bring in pressure, however slight, even unknowingly. The situation becomes a little uncomfortable as a result, the dog starts forming a not so nice association and before you know it the dog dislikes the whole exercise. Then you really have to tighten the screws to not only get the dog through the exrcise but to lift his spirit aswell. Not easy if you don't know what you're doing. ;)
__________________ Don't get caught in the STORM! Chanteur Zega ITT1 100%, ITT2 97% Nero vom Hoch Constantia BH, ScHIII Dante of Belgrisse, watch this space! :-) |
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#10
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| Very true. A couple things you can do to keep things positive when your dog is showing a little bit of signs of discouragement. First of all if you are going to teach your dog a difficult exercise (meaning either the actual complexity of the exercise or the distraction) then you want your motivator to be a little bit more powerful then usual to make it that much more worth it. I am very fortunate to have a very food motivated dog so hot dogs work regardless but if he wasn't as motivated then I would use a food he would kill for. It will keep him trying longer and would be extra rewarding to him. Second of all is if I see my dog start to get discouraged or disinterested (of course it's not going to be because he's full--because he's coming to the training session HUNGRY, we're going to have a handful of successes and then I'm going to put him up, so fullness is no where in the agenda ;)) soo if he becomes disinterested and starts to drift a bit then I just reward him for hanging around me. It let's him know if he hangs in there at least and continues to try then he will get rewarded. |
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#11
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| The foundation that Storm describes is a Pearsall idea that I have always used regardless of the prey of the individual dog that has it charging after the dumbell. (Pearsall's stuff came out probably before most of you were born......... :D ) It established the imprinting of proper carriage that sticks with the dog. If I had a bell-carrier, I'd back up and use this to establish proper carrying. Bell carrying not only looks bad and is incorrect, it is too easy to get it bumped out of the mouth. So back up, or if you haven't taught the dog to reach for the bar each time, no reason you can't restart with that procedure. It will be worth it in the long run. When you get to those heavier dumbells, the dog won't have to relearn. I guess an alternative would be to put up the light dumbell and just use the heavy ones. That should certainly discourage a bell grabber. |
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#12
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| I taught my retrieve with the clicker. If it's early enough in his training, you can try it also. So far, 3 people in our club have tried it, and they all like it. Here's the website that I used: http://www.shirleychong.com/keepers/retrieve.html If you don't take shortcuts, you won't have that problem. |
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#13
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| Stop the presses! Valdes and Storm just agreed on a topic????? LOL.. seriously... I have not taught a formal retrieve (just playing fetch), but I have been toying with the concept of using the clicker to teach it... Ramon, how long do you think it took (in sessions/repetitions, not actual time)??
__________________ -Matt |
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#14
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#15
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| Ramon, that's cool.... that isn't really that long.. That website seemed pretty good, as far as covering alot of different principles.. I am with you in regards to the skippng ahead thing.... if the dog is cathing on, no reason to hold it back just because some joker who built a website said to.. that is what seperates the trainers from the "others" ;)
__________________ -Matt |
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