![]() |
| |||||||
| Working Rottweilers Therapy, Schutzhund, Agility, Carting, Obedience, Personal Protection, Herding, Flyball, Dock Jumping, if it has to do with Working Topics, lets post it here! |
|
Welcome to the Rottweiler Discussion Forums forums. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us. |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
| |||
| |||
| To Bite Train or Not to Bite train Teething Pups Thats is the question. I've heard you lose the "hard mouth" if you don't bite train teething pups and I've heard that you lose the "hard mouth" if you do bite train teething pups. Both sides seemed to be strongly opinionated on the issue. Any input?? |
|
#2
| |||
| |||
| My opinion is that the bite ultimately is determined by the dog's genetic ability in conjunction with the training seeking that balance within the dog channeling into the most desired bite. As for teething pups, a bite may prove to be painful and as a result an unfavorable association is formed early in the dog's mind. This may form an obstacle and some reprogramming may be necessary which is not the ideal thing.
__________________ Don't get caught in the STORM! Chanteur Zega ITT1 100%, ITT2 97% Nero vom Hoch Constantia BH, ScHIII Dante of Belgrisse, watch this space! :-) |
|
#3
| |||
| |||
| I've always played tug-o-war with a tube sock tied with a couple of knots from baby puppyhood through teetheing. Helps speed the process up and haven't "lost" a bite yet.
__________________ A pedigree indicates what your dog should be. Conformation indicates what your dog appears to be. Performance, personality and character indicates what your dog actually *IS*. |
|
#4
| |||
| |||
| Tube sock w/knots... that is what I have been doing with my pup (she is a non-Rott, leave it at that! :p ) oh, and we also play tug with all towels, rugs, robes, anything that dangles in front of her!! :D she especially loves the bath mat in my bathroom!!! everytime she sees the door is cracked.... there she goes with it!! sucks getting outta the shower, to step on cold wet tile ![]()
__________________ -Matt |
|
#5
| |||
| |||
| Playing with suitable stuff tug etc. shouldn't pose a problem, but people wanting to imprint bite development during this stage on equipment, may pose a problem. |
|
#6
| |||
| |||
| First experience or a strong enough experience of anything can be an imprint. And I for sure would not want to start bitework while teething. But a few"not so rough" training sessions I believe can be beneficial. One of the points someone brought up in an article which I feel makes sense is that pain inhibits. So his argument is if pain inhibits then bitework through teeting would be counterproductive. I'm not too sure of that. A little stress (of course not overdone) can be beneficial IMO. I've also heard someone say that if you don't do any bitework during the teething stage the grip will never be as hard as it would've been the light training was done. (for reasons I cannot remember) |
|
#7
| |||
| |||
| Quote:
|
|
#8
| |||
| |||
| Quote:
|
|
#9
| |||
| |||
| Remember.....when the dog is in drive; things look (and feel) a little different to the dog ;) Lift up the lip of a 5 month old pup and take a peek at those swollen; sore gums......watch that same pup playing tug with another dog. |
|
#10
| |||
| |||
| Let me ask you this Annette. Do you choose to do the bitework during teething because there is great purpose behind it or do you do it because you know you can or what? Have you seen differences with other working pups doing it a different way? |
|
#11
| |||
| |||
| Who said I do bitework during teetheing? I play tug....I play with the burlap bag....I take the puppy to the club and let him/her play. If a puppy showed signs of pain while doing any of it.....I'd ignore it like it didn't happen and show more "animation" immediately (my actions) and let the prey drive take over. You have to know the nerve strength of your puppy though. A soft or weak puppy might back off. Others.....well you end up picking baby K9 teeth out of your tug object (to have dipped in gold and put on a really cool necklace :D) |
|
#12
| |||
| |||
| Quote:
|
|
#13
| |||
| |||
| Look up Stormy :) Evil nasty person that I am.....I don't water down my dogs kibble when they're teetheing either....and none of them have had a negative association with eating because of it either. I play....I don't do "bitework". If a puppy has a negative association with PLAY and it affects the bitework forever more......that puppy is going to a PET HOME cause there's some serious issues in the head. |
|
#14
| |||
| |||
| Quote:
|
|
#15
| |||
| |||
| Sorry I didn't specify that I meant general biting period when I referred to bite training. Doesn't or can't it roll over? Even though now that I think about it, If we're speaking of giving the pup biting while in drive to avoid any focusing on little pain wouldn't it be best to have a couple minutes session where the pup is tied up or the handler holding and give the pup just a couple of light bites and misses while in high drive versus play type drive? |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
| |