Pulling!!!!!

[Jarose]

Since my last post I have really been concentrating on stopping Nina's mouthing and
I HAVE seen improvement. She will still try,
but is not as persistant about it and will stop after being corrected. So I am really happy about that. Tonight we had class and
it's funny because alot of her littermates are there and she is the most energetic,
outgoing puppy there. I was told that she was the runt of 7 and as a small puppy she was always going after the other puppies - especially the biggest ones! It gives me some insight into her personality. Anyway,
last week she did exceptionally well and it was only our second class - this week she was a bit more hyper and out of foceus (don't know why) but still did well. In fact the trainer singled her out of the class
and said she is going to do REALLY well in the future based on what her sees now. I questioned her "hyperness" and did not seem at all concerned - in fact he indicated it may be an asset in the future for certain things. Anyway, before this gets too long, my question is what is the best method to
handle her pulling on her leash?! She is getting stronger daily and when all riled
up is getting harder to control. ( I AM
practicing with the commands.) I am petite
and easy to drag around and would like to get a handle on it before she is 100 lbs.!!!

[Paxx]

I am moving this to Training.

[WorkinDogz]

I'm sure your trainer has a tape recorded that does nothing but repeat "LOOSE LEAD! LOOSE LEAD!" throughout the class :)

There's a reason for that. It's called "opposition reflex". The harder YOU pull back; the harder the DOG pulls forward.

Breaking the opposition reflex is the key to breaking the pull cycle.

Normally a dog on a flat collar or choke chain will continue to pull; pulling through the "correction" if the handler has failed to pay proper attention to opposition reflex in the imprinting stage of training.

You can break this by NOT pulling the dog back; but by changing your direction. Remember; corrections given are supposed to be a sharp "pop and release". I'd rather see handlers assume the "tree" position (just stand there) and let the dog get a wake up call when they hit the end of the lead a couple of times.

I personally like prong collars for this exercise; given the dog is old enough and proper foundation has be layed for the dog.

[chloe and brutus' mom]

Lucy J
What is this extra big leash with an extra handle? Do you know the exact name, and do they sell them at most pet stores?

[Jarose]

WorkinDogz -

That was the EXACT issue at class last night with Nina and me - I was being told to
relax the lead while she heeled and to pop her back when she pulled. So I guess this is a matter of practice right? MY problem is when I take her for walks and sees things or people and is TOTALLY all over the place,
as she grows and until she is trained what is my best option?

[LucyJ]

Chloe & Brutus' mom,
I think the exact name is "Big Dog Leash" and I believe they have them at most pet supply stores. I've seen them at 3 local stores so they're pretty easy to find. I think even Walmart might have had them too. I love them and recommend them to anyone with a big dog. :)

[WorkinDogz]

First of all Jarose, how old is Nina? What type of training are you doing (using praise-only, praise-reward (treats) etc.)

Yes; practice and time is something that it does take...but if you're popping and jerking your dog frequently for forging (moving ahead and out of the heel position) your corrections are ineffective.

What do you do when you pop her back into position? Do you reinforce it with a treat and a "good heel"? Are you teaching attention heeling? (where the dog is looking at you when heeling)

I know what I would do...but your trainer probably has other ideas...and turning around and changing directions isn't real possible if you in a moving cirle of 15 dogs and handlers. I know when a dog is going to break the heel position before he actually does it (body language) and I like to reinforce a GOOD position instead of having to correct for a break of position.

Depending on the age of the dog; I prefer prong collars for correction purposes...for the very reason you're finding it necessary to pop her back into position frequently and lose control when the dog sees another animal or person....your correction isn't teaching her anything; it's just annoying her for a moment; then it's back to forging and *forgetting* where heel is.

[Jarose]

WorkinDogz -

Nina just turned 5 months last week.
Our last class was only the third one. We
use treats and praise. I was told to hold the treat out in front of her as encouragement - so therefore she is looking
ahead and not at me. Sometimes (on my own
because it seems to get her focused) before I start I have her look at me with my hand
and treat at my face and then move it away. I don't know if this right or not but it seems to work better than just waving the treat in front of her. We have not yet ventured into other collars - they want the pups to start out with regular flat ones for now, however I think eventually we will be introduced to other kinds. So what would you suggest for her and I during regular walks and outings? I do value your advice - you obviously have alot of experience and knowledge. Incidentally the trainer suggested maybe a shorter lead for more control. And I do know that I need to really work alot with her - it's still kind of a new thing for us. Just out of curiosity what is recommended for frequency/
time of practice sessions? I'm assuming daily but there are just some days there is
not enough time!

[WorkinDogz]

Jarose,

Your trainer and I have fundamental differences in theory and methodology. I don't "lure" dogs with food. Why on earth would I want my dog looking ahead instead of where the commands are going to be coming from? (me) I really hesitate giving any advice since my methods are waaaaaaay off of your chosen trainers. :( I'll tell you this; "baiting" a dog the way your trainer is teaching is NOT my idea of positive training.

Honestly, when I'm training my own dogs in any aspect; they aren't even on lead. The only time they are on lead during training is when I'm at the club; and that consists of a "light long line" that they drag on the ground.

Obviously; in a class situation that wouldn't work...but if you're finding yourself fumbling around and tripping over a 6ft. leash; maybe a 4ft one wouldn't be a bad idea.

Training is an everyday thing. I only do a 5 min. session a couple of times a day. I like to end training leaving the dog ready, willing and able to give more. Not when they've already lost the drive to work.

Short and sweet. :)

[DiscoDoggy]

Here is a weird thing that I do with my rotty. Im sure this is in no way endorse by dog trainers out there, but it works for me. When walking my dog, she too pulls pretty hard, so I started running her long leash under her neck, and down between her front legs, and back out between the front leg and back leg that are closest to me. The awkwardness of having her head pulled down, and her leg pulled up, when she tugs, is enough to make her walk at MY pace....TRY IT! ;)

Disco Doggy's method is interesting. Has anyone else tried this sort of thing?