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#1
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| Well, one of the advantages of being a member of an obedience club is if you need a puppy kindergarten class and there isn't one available, you can always just teach one yourself. The impending pup needs to start KPT between Thanksgiving and Christmas, and I couldn't find any classes starting then. Sooooo... I've done plenty of Basic classes, which are kind of baptism by fire because usually the dogs are unruly adolescents with inexperienced owners (we generally send experienced handlers and club members right into Sub-Novice if we can). However, I've never taught a puppy class, so I would love to hear opinions on things you liked and didn't like. I've already talked to some of our other KPT instructors, and one of them is actually sending me a PowerPoint presentation she prepared! I've got some ideas on what I'd like to do. I don't think KPT is the time for serious OB, I will teach them sit and down, loose leash walking by not letting pulling work, etc., but mostly I would like to work on getting their puppy's attention to start building the foundation. Learning how to redirect the pup and focus on you, using toys and treats. I am not sure if I should introduce the clicker or if that would be too much. But teaching something like targeting might be fun with the clicker. I will also cover common household problems like housebreaking and crate training, chewing, diet, etc. There will be puppy playtime, but I am not sure about when that should take place. Some people say to have the playtime at the beginning of class, but I think that would make them more stimulated and focused on each other rather than their owners. So I am leaning towards having playtime at the end of class. I am also going to do some gentle handling round robins, with each student going around to greet and treat all the puppies. I would also like to set up some puppy obstacle courses to get them used to different surfaces and spaces. I was thinking ground poles, some kind of textured footing, a tunnel, a big cardboard box, maybe a piece of plywood sandpainted that is slightly warped that will move a tiny bit when they walk on it. Any other ideas? This is going to be fun!
__________________ Laurie & Cub CDX RN NA CGC ^Hubie^ CD CGC, ^Ilsa^ CDX CGC, ^Mia^ CGC |
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#2
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| Doing fun recalls through a bunch of toys (like dump a nasket of toys out on the floor) and seeing if everyone can get their puppies focus back if they lose it. I have always liked this in puppy classes because it is a good gauge for me to see if my early focus training is working. kristi
__________________ Co-pilots ... Ch. OTCH Jewel CDI RE BH RL2 CGN TT HIC ^Justice CDX BH TT CGC CGN HIC^ Ch. Seeker CD RE BH RL1 CGN TT HIC Ruckus RN TT HIC (pointed) Jager HIC |
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#3
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| Ooh, that's a good one, thanks Kristi!!! I think I forgot to mention recalls in the OB stuff, but that is probably the MOST important command of all.
__________________ Laurie & Cub CDX RN NA CGC ^Hubie^ CD CGC, ^Ilsa^ CDX CGC, ^Mia^ CGC |
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#4
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| Couple ideas... * Have owners bring a small rug or blanket and teach their puppy to go to it (and eventually lie down one it) through clicker/voice marker only (no cheating ). This is a great exercise for people and dogs because it helps the owner learn timing, and creates a "try" attitude in the pup. Because it's not a "important" obedience command like sit or down people are much more open to being patient.* Tricks, tricks and more tricks (again, people tend to be more patient/relaxed and puppies learn to like learning). I like spins (both directions), and a good hand touch followed by a lid touch on the floor and a "spot" touch on the wall. * Attention work--"watch" (a good foundation in focus will work wonders later...and it's never too early to start). * Name recognition (make their names positive...I see too many people who've inadvertantly taught their puppy that something negative comes after his/her name) * Leave it * Good behavior during grooming/exams (ears, eyes, teeth etc...vets will LOVE you for this one) Edited to add this link: Nine fun behaviors to teach a puppy (clicker related "games", but a verbal marker works just as well...they're described for playing at home, but could be modified for a class setting...the important concept being owners and pups having fun teaching/learning together)
__________________ Becky Giddings HC Elsa CDX HXAsd HTDIIIsd HRDIIIs ATDsd OTDc NA NAJ VX Arnie CD RE HIAsd OTDs BH AD VX Roca CD RE HSAs AXP AJP CS VX Beck CD RE HXAsd ATDs OTDd BH CS VX Brev CD RE PT OA OAJ CI V Last edited by hcelsa; 09-30-2005 at 12:35 PM. |
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#5
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| Introduce the pups (and owners) to tracking!
__________________ Control and obedience is directly proportional to a dog’s freedom. |
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#6
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| Thanks, Becky! Those are just the kindof ideas I am looking for. I am going to create a little syllabus to outline what I'd like to cover each week plus some simple homework assignments. damp, I totally agree with you on starting tracking right away. I'm driving up to get my pup on Friday night and coming back on a Saturday. The pup will get it's first tracking lessons on Sunday and Monday. Unfortunately, the class I am teaching is 8 one hour sessions at an indoor training facility, so I don't think we'll be able to cover tracking as part of the curriculum.
__________________ Laurie & Cub CDX RN NA CGC ^Hubie^ CD CGC, ^Ilsa^ CDX CGC, ^Mia^ CGC |
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#9
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| Here are my experiences, based on multiple puppy classes, and in having spoken with the instructors: a) expect at least 1/3rd of the class to drop out and don't take it personally......people are lazy. b) don't expect much understanding of dogs, learning, timing of rewards, etc c) keep explanations SUPER short and brief......people have very limited attention spans The last several classes I've attended, we've had multiple play sessions. Maybe 10-15min of work, then a play session. Then call your puppy back and do some more work, then more play. Teaching things like sit and down, and then starting to work to maintain the down (standing on leash). We've also played "pass the puppy" where everyone passes the puppy one person to the left (hands off leash) and the pup gets used to lots of different people, and working for them (sit, down, etc). This is useful for vet appointments, and places where your dog may need to obey someone else's command. I've seen clickers introduced in puppy classes, but not too many "normal" people seem to really get the idea at all. They'll just sit and click over and over at the pup, like it's an attention-getting system, not a reward marker. I know I sound negative.....just trying to share my experiences so you're not as dumbfounded at some of the complete lack of education (and complete lack of wanting to learn/work) out there as I was. It seems that the more successful classes have tried to teach less, and work more on general manners and puppy learning (and teaching people about dogs in general) than trying to really teach a lot of behaviours (this seems to lose a lot of the clueless, who are there for the quick fix and when they're not getting it, they quit).
__________________ Gretchen Caldwell "I request permission to join the Validity Committee." - Dwight |
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#10
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| Quote:
That's OK, I can't force anyone to learn, but I just want to make it a good experience for those who want to make the most of their time and class fee.
__________________ Laurie & Cub CDX RN NA CGC ^Hubie^ CD CGC, ^Ilsa^ CDX CGC, ^Mia^ CGC |
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#12
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| Do you have access to any agility equipment? People seem to like to "do" things with their puppies. Back end awareness can be taught at an early age as a fun game of running through a ladder on the ground. You can also lay a series of jump bars on the ground at random spacing, and have the pups trot back and forth through them. Recalling your pup from the group during play is a big one to work on too, will show who's got the relationship going and who doesn't. ![]() We also worked on the pup not lunging for the food bowl, but holding a sit until the bowl was down. No corrections given, but simply put pup in a sit, start lowerring the bowl, as soon as pup broke, bowl immediately back up, start over. Dog learns that it's actions have consequences. Betty used to pass around her copy of "The Other end of the leash" and use the photos showing dogs being hugged, to explain how much dogs do NOT like being hugged (in trying to teach people some general dog etiquette). Really push the socialization work, and perhaps give them a new place each week that they are to take pup and spent 1/2hr greeting people (grocery store, post office, record/book stores, Home Depot entrance, kids sports events, etc).
__________________ Gretchen Caldwell "I request permission to join the Validity Committee." - Dwight |
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#13
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| My trainer has 8 one-hour sessions for the puppy classes. Each class goes like this: 5 min questions and answers, allows puppies to settle a bit 15 min working 15 min playtime, then potty break outdoors 15 min working remaining time is for playtime and more questions I've assisted him with the puppy classes, and this schedule seems to work out well. The exercises we've done have all been mentioned above. Good luck - and most of all, have fun!
__________________ "Everyone's life makes a difference; what KIND of difference you make is up to you." --Jane Goodall |
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#14
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Quote:
Thank you for the reminder on the sit before eating thing, I always insist that my dogs do that before I put down the bowl and wait for the OK to eat. I do not like being mauled by Bumpus hounds. That is a good thing to teach puppy owners!
__________________ Laurie & Cub CDX RN NA CGC ^Hubie^ CD CGC, ^Ilsa^ CDX CGC, ^Mia^ CGC |
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#15
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| Quote:
__________________ "Everyone's life makes a difference; what KIND of difference you make is up to you." --Jane Goodall |
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