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#1
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| Distractions When my dog - who is dog aggressive, sees another dog I will do several things to distract him from wanting to go eat the other dog lol. Mostly, dependign on the situation and where we are I will either quickly move to another direction, break out into a routine - like the 8 or a triangle, or I will drill him with fut and plaits commands. If at all possible, I pat his head and muzzle tell him to leave it and settle and calmly keep reapeating myself. There are however, times when none of the above works. Does anyone else have anything that you do or could suggest to do in case all else fails. If all this fails at any given time, I have no choice but to hold my dog up as he will go after to kill. Keep in mind he is way better than what he was- I have been working very, very, very hard with him. And no treats please as they do nothing for him. |
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#2
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| When you can tell he is not going to do the distraction thing, I would certainly go promptly to compulsion. He needs to realize your authority, not just tricks for distraction. Get your leash down to 12 inches or even less, pivot in front of him and using your knees walk into him forcing him to keep backing up and using your frontal body language and a strong tongue lashing. Show anger to him at his total disregard of your authority. (and for me, that anger would not be play-acting).
__________________ "The scientific name for an animal that doesn't either run from or fight its enemies is lunch."-Michael Friedman |
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#3
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| So while I am walking in to him, if he keeps trying to move forward towards the other dog at all do I just ignore the other dog and keep walking in to him? DO I tell him to sit or anything while I am lashing out at him or do I just keep walking into him telling him how upset I am at the time? |
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#4
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| Well, you are supposed to be doing this for his disregarding you. It is serious business. You can give him a don't mess with me sit after you've backed him up about 5 feet depending upon his quickness to understand that he has crossed the line. If he doesn't get that point, I don't care if you back him up all the way home. Time for responsibility for both of you. You to assume control and responsiblity for your dog's actions and your dog to learn that his behavior has consequences from you and he'd better learn to show you respect.
__________________ "The scientific name for an animal that doesn't either run from or fight its enemies is lunch."-Michael Friedman |
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#5
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| Sounds like you need a e-collar! |
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#6
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| I am a big believer food training. Food is a dog's main resource for survival. If you use fod for training, creating scenarios where it is made available in certain areas only for the dog to obtain, at his choice, you can accomplish wonders. The unfortunate thing with food training is very few people truly grasp the concept and even more imortant the development of a system where food and the obtaining of food becomes a way of interaction and success. All other negative behaviours and responses are created, allowed or even encouraged at some point unknowingly. Correct food development takes time and understanding and with incorrect development or foundation it has no effect and that's when people say it doesn't work. Aggression is as a result of scenarios over and over again where it occurs and the association gets deeper and as a result of your work with the dog not being of importance where he makes the choice to rather eat the next dog. Make no mistake correction comes into place and has its place but there is O so much development desired first in other areas. My dogs and the dogs we train go through barely any socialisation but emphasis is on creating contructive interaction and the obtaining of food during these sessions over vast periods of time cementing a clear picture of consistency. There are so many people just training for say low level club obedience, home obedience etc. and give low levels of interaction, associations and training and consistency and yet expect world class obedience, it will never happen and maybe people should start realizing this and know they bring the picture onto the field, if you work your dog and consistently there is a picture, good or bad, training input is directly proportionate. Food used to the fullest extent is a brilliant means to cement associations, no dog will at the end of the day choose to drop dead of hunger rather then climb into the next dog, but with that been said previous development and associations will minimize/maximize a lot of problems and when problems or associations are so deeply imprinted, a system with no foundation won't improve the situation unless foundation is put into place but to put foundation into place with one already there becomes a corrective issue as opposed to a developmental one.
__________________ Don't get caught in the STORM! Chanteur Zega ITT1 100%, ITT2 97% Nero vom Hoch Constantia BH, ScHIII Dante of Belgrisse, watch this space! :-) Last edited by Storm; 09-25-2005 at 05:48 PM. |
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