focus

[ron gray]

I was curious how you folks have trained your pups to focus on you during training. We just went thru basic obedience, and will be attending intermediate training come spring, but I want to really reinforce what we've learned already. As Im heeling the dog, I noticed the dog doesnt really focus on me at all. She just kinda walks with me, but if I make a 90 degree turn, she just keeps going. She'll hit the end of the leash and come over, but still just looks around. She doesnt really position herself very well when I have her sit unless she was already next to me (i.e. if I have her loop around me on her finish she just sits in the general area that shes supposed to, but def out of position). The place where were getting our training is the local police k9 trainers, and I see these pups heeling before class, and they never take thier eyes off thier handlers. They do abrupt about turns, and the dog never misses a beat. Any ideas on what I can be doing wrong, or what I can do to increase my dogs focus? BTW, the dog is a 4 yr old rescue, so Im not sure if thats a major factor in this equation or not...

Thanks for the help...

Ron

[Miabella]

You need teach attention because unfortunately attention doesn't just happen.

I like to start a green dog out heeling off leash in a secure fenced area. I will set them up in heel position, and then I will just start walking. Wait for the dog to work it out and show up in heel position (you might have to help at first by saying "hello Fido!" as you walk by or giving them a quick scritch under the chin).

As soon as the dog is in heel position, reward immediately with food or toy. However, keep walking! At first you will always reward as soon as the dog comes into position. Any behavior that is rewarded will increase in frequency and intensity. Be sure to throw in turns, circles, halts, and changes of speed. The dog will quickly learn that he must be paying attention to you at all times to be rewarded. Do not look back at your dog, call him, or stop walking! He must work out the problem for himself. A little help like I described above is OK so he doesn't shut down and give up, but mostly you want the little wheels in his head to be turning.

Something about this method produces really happy, self-motivated heelers. It has the advantage that the dog had to work out the problem himself. It puts the responsibility for heeling on the shoulders on the dog, and the handler doesn't have to nag/beg the dog for attention and position.

[Patty1231]

Originally Posted by Miabella

Something about this method produces really happy, self-motivated heelers. It has the advantage that the dog had to work out the problem himself. It puts the responsibility for heeling on the shoulders on the dog, and the handler doesn't have to nag/beg the dog for attention and position.

This method also does not stop reaping benefits. Rocco has his CD but I really wanted to tighten up his healing so I used basically this method while out for walks. Although not off lead, I would use this method and now Rocco has been spending half our walks in heel position and watching me because he knows a treat will eventually come (mostly I just reward with "good boys" and happy praise and intermittent treats).

[BostonRott]

One thing to remember, the power to this method is in RANDOM reward schedule. Once the dog figures out to be in position, start holding the reward back for longer and then QUICKLY move to a variable schedule. Variable schedules of rewards are the best in creating ongoing performance. Why do you continue to return to the slot machine? Because you MIGHT win something. If every time you went, you got a dollar back after 1 minute, your performance would quickly suffer and you would lolly-gag around until that known 1 minute mark, get your boring ol' dollar and leave. If you receive various amounts of money at random, your interest is piqued and you stick with it. :Smile:

When starting focus work, I start with clicking for eye contact (not staring at the food, toy or clicker). Xcel offers tons of eye contact, his attention has been stellar since Day 1, but he's the first dog I've ever had like this. Teach the dog that making eye contact with you is a good thing.

They also need to gain confidence in their ability to walk with their head up. Walk backwards, luring the dog with you, head up and walking. Then change to dog walking at your side, again continuously feeding out of your hand to teach the dog that it can safely walk with it's head up. Many rotties don't like their heads cranked up because then they can't be looking around at what else "may appear." It's part of the natural guarding instinct of the breed. However, a good working relationship should be able to over come this.

Many areas offer attention classes. While taking one, you'll be forbidden from doing any heeling at all (at home, in class). The dog is going to be retrained that heeling entails not only being at your left, but also giving attention.