The importance of early socialization and imprinting

[poohbearsmom]

We've seen this subject broached many times on the forums. We've heard how important early socialization is for puppies, in order to give them the best start possible. More often than not, we've seen the results of poor socialization and stimulation in the form of questions from folks here on Rottweiler dot net.

For a puppy, the time from birth through 16 weeks, is probably the most important and imprintable time in a dog's life. This is the time when we, as breeders can make a real difference in the future of the puppies we rear.

All too often, we hear of timid dogs, fearful dogs, aggressive dogs (which, I would bet, more often than not is NOT dominance aggression), and general social ineptness.

There are many, very good breeders out there, who through experience, and lots of homework, (and we can't forget that practice makes perfect!), produce very sound dogs, who live happily, and without incident in our human world. There are also folks out there who choose not to partake in rearing practices that assist in producing sound dogs - either by choice, or lack of knowledge.

I decided to post this information after contacting a breeder, recently, who was selling very overpriced pups. After asking this breeder 3 questions, I surmised that the only socialization the litter had the benefit of, was hearing a garage door open and close a couple of times a day. I don't care HOW stable the dam and sire are, this is a recipe for fearful pups that become fearful dogs, which with our breed, is a recipe for disaster.

The links I've posted below run the gammet from articles regarding the importance of early neurological stimulation, imprinting and socializing, to methods of performing these exercises.

I've found each of these links to be very helpful to me, in addition to the good advice I get from trusted friends who are breeders.

Not only is this information helpful to breeders - it's very good information for the buyer as well. Not every breeder will perform every exercise on a litter of pups, but, as a buyer, you want to make sure that the litter from which you buy has had the benefit of good stimulation. By reading the following links, you, as a buyer, will be able to question breeders about the methods of socialization they use on a litter.



So, without further adieu, happy reading:

The first couple of articles stress the importance of early socialization:

http://www.kerschberger.com/ENS.htm
http://www.inch.com/~dogs/socialization.html

The next one is a favorite of mine:
http://www.californiamondioring.org/imprinting.htm

And you can do a general search on the internet regarding Bio sensor stimulation. (all the links I have are breeder pages).

Last but not least, an article dug up from our forum, penned by our very own Mick Trainer:
http://www.rottweiler.net/forums/sho...+socialisation

This stimulation and imprinting in the links I've posted should never be a substitute for regular day to day handling of pups while they're being reared. The breeder should be careful not to overstimulate the pups, as this can have bad results, as much as under stimulation can.

I think it's so important for buyers as well as breeders to become informed as to what is acceptable and expected when rearing a litter of pups. If a breeder is not willing to put the hours in, then do our dogs, and puppy buyers a favor, take up knitting.

If anyone else has links or helpful information that can benefit both breeders and buyers, bring it on. :)

[damp]

Very imformative post Pooh!!!

(I look forward to read the pages you linked to)

[ilovemyrottie]

Thanks for the great links!! :)
They were very informative and I enjoyed reading them. I wish more people could help out the puppies in this world w/such a great start.

[Ann Felske-Jackman]

In my opinion, the single most important thing that a breeder can do for their pups is to raise them properly. Within this statement though, please take it as a given that the breeder has already attempted to line the genetics up as well as possible to produce a strong puppy in regards to both physical and mental health. This in turn make our job of socializing and training as fun and easy as possible.

That said, here are some ideas for rearing a happy, well-adjusted pup:

During the first 1-2 weeks, touch them and talk with them. All the time. A million times a day. Sit/Lie right in the whelping box with them. Every time you look in on puppies from day one, each one should be stroked and talked to. You'll be amazed at how young they are when they start to look forward to this and pull themselves toward you for attention. Touch them all over, on the face, on their feet, rub their tummies and armpits. Hold them close to your neck and face so that they get used to the warmth and smell. No matter what else you do for your young pups, nothing is a better substitute than the human touch.

Also, utilize the early stimulation techniques. The theory behind it is that small stresses boost the immune system. Go a step further and move the pups around the house a bit, even when they are very young. Every room has it's own smells, every surface a new feel. Each day, put something new into the whelping box for them to explore. You'll be surprised how creative you can get when you have to find something new every day for 9 weeks ;)

Once they're very mobile, say 3-4 weeks, start letting them out of the box to explore the world. Get them onto every imaginable footing and outside into grass or snow for brief periods. Nothing is sadder to me than an adolescent dog that can't manuever a slippery floor, or can't walk over grating. It tells me that the breeder did nothing with them when they were young. Now's the time to start adding really fun stuff to the puppy playpen. Logs for them to crawl over, a tunnel to go through, a small tire to go in and out of etc. They want to explore and will take every opportunity. Also use this time to introuce them to new sounds. The tv, the dishwasher, the vacuum, etc.

Around 5-6 weeks, the fun really begins. Go for walks in the woods, introduce them to swimming (a baby pool outside in the summer, the bathtub in the winter), get them on the agility obstacles, and incorporate items to be carried (sticks, dowels, small dumbells etc.). Start letting them interact with other adult dogs in the house that you know will be good with them. And invite every neighboring child within a 10 mile radius to come and play with puppies.

This age is also the time to start firming up behaviors. Take them out one by one and reward for eye contact, coming when called, retrieving. Start to teach them to trade an item in their mouth for a treat. Use a food lure to manipulate their bodies so they learn to move sideways and backward, not just forward or up. Start taking them outside to potty, and again, a reward for a good job done.

At 7 weeks, do their PAT test or whatever test you use. We use the Volhard test, and also add about 20 more items of our own that assess ability to problem solve, work through stress etc. Once you're confident that you know what each pup has, or is lacking, you can use the time left with them to work on what they need, or strenthen even further what they already have.

At 7-8 weeks, it's time to be on the move. Go for car rides. Take them into the stores and post office with you. Take one to the hairdressers, or the gym. You'll be amazed at how welcome your pups will be, especially if you only have one or two at a time. Simply explain that you are working to socialize the pup so it will be a better dog for it's new owner, and you'll have everyone you encounter willing to help. In fact, I'd be surprised if their feet ever hit the floor when they're out in public Go out of your way to find new sights, sounds and smells for them at this age. Drive through the car wash, take them into McDonalds, basically just go about your day, but take a puppy along. If you have kids, take them to visit their school. If you're training other dogs, take the pups with you. Also, start tracking now and working with a soft rag/tug if the new owner is hoping to move on in these sports.

Then, send them home to the perfect new home that you picked out just for them, based on what you've learned in your interactions, and watch them succeed!

Ann

[poohbearsmom]

Ann, thank you for putting the much needed "heart" into what I was driving at. :)

[BostonRott]

I completely agree with Ann, and would only add that I have my neighborhood kids into the box starting at 3 weeks. The kids range in age from 2 years to 14. Some are good with the pups, some aren't. Teaches the pups to read and accept all body language and to understand it.

I take pups to the fire station, the bank, training facilities where I know no sick dogs are, the SchH field, and anywhere else that I happen to go. They grow up in my dining room, the hear the vaccuum, the coffee grinder, the dishwasher, the garbage disposal, pots/pans, the TV, the blasting stereo (Hubby!!), and all the other assorted household noises. We also make a point of leaving a radio on with them all day long, starting at 2 weeks when their hearing comes in.......start at one end of the dial and work our way up, so they listen to everything from talk radio to hard rock, country to pop.

I think the Bio-sensor program is phenominal, I have used it on two litters, and have 14 puppy owners who absolutely RAVE about their puppy's temperaments and strength of nerve/character.

The pups also get to meet the cat at several different ages, as well as they have baths, get lots of nail trimming and learn to have their teeth examined.

One thing that's VERY important to mention is that socialization is an ONGOING PROCESS!!!!!!! The best socialized puppy at 8 weeks can be a disaster by 20 weeks if the work is not continued. Do not coddle the pup when it shows a fear reaction, ignore the reaction and act interested in the scary stimulus. The pup should come check it out (with quick recovery). Keep the pup out around TONS of people. Have pizza parties at your house and play "pass the puppy." Invite people over to watch a football game, rent movies, whatever. Get the pup out to the mall, the grocery store, the post office on a Saturday, and sit with lots of treats and reward good behaviour and calm reactions. Let the pup see that the world is full of a variety of people, and most of them are good. :D

[Ann Felske-Jackman]

You must like kids more than I do Gretchen

Thanks for reminding everyone about teeth, toenails etc. I just take that stuff for granted. And if they're male puppies, don't forget about testicles. We also start brushing and bathing young as well as spraying them with a water bottle. Very helpful for those owners who are going to show or trial on hot days.

And I do like the cat idea, although Gambol has a "no cat" rule. Maybe I could borrow one from a neighbor ;) I'm not kidding actually.

Ann

[cryjay]

I have two cats as well as my dogs. My bitch, (and we have had her longer than my male) LOVES my cats. She plays with them all of the time (and I swear my oldest cat thinks he is a dog :) ). As I think most of you know my bitch has now 8 little puppies in which to look after. They have started getting stimulated as appropriate for their age. And I will for sure be doing a lot of the stimuli posted. I have found it quite informative and thank everyone for so much information, however, I do have a few questions but will just ask one for now. I totally agree with introducing all the dogs to as many different animals and people at all stages in their life but as much as possible when they are young. What my question is though, right from the time my dog gave birth to her puppies she never minded the cats being there, either watching the birth or laying beside her whelping box. Now she doesn't even mind if they come in and still cuddle up to her ( my bitch and cats have always slept nuzzled into eachother) however, whenever my male dog approaches she gets very leary. Why?
And is there something I should know about this?

And okay I lied I have another question :). As far as I understand it takes a few days for the puppies ears to open so they can hear. How many days approximatley is this? When I run the vacuum I am sure they would be able to feel the vibrations through the floor... so when they hear the vacuum will they put two and two together? Also regarding children being around the puppies (besides my own) what age is the best age for this? As I know children often carry alot of cold bugs around and is this okay for the puppies? I want them to be very well socialized. I always take my dogs with me everywhere I can. My bitch can be put in anywhere with any other friendly animal and be totally trustworthy AND confident. And my bitch has only ever been scared once ( which is a really funny story for another time). She was well stimulated and I want to do the same for her puppies. I know it is a lifelong process to constantly stimulate your dogs, but the right start is the best start and that's what I really want to achieve. Any more ideas or ways to help accomplish this would be awesome.

Thanks!

[poohbearsmom]

Originally Posted by cryjay

I have two cats as well as my dogs. My bitch, (and we have had her longer than my male) LOVES my cats. She plays with them all of the time (and I swear my oldest cat thinks he is a dog :) ). As I think most of you know my bitch has now 8 little puppies in which to look after. They have started getting stimulated as appropriate for their age. And I will for sure be doing a lot of the stimuli posted. I have found it quite informative and thank everyone for so much information, however, I do have a few questions but will just ask one for now. I totally agree with introducing all the dogs to as many different animals and people at all stages in their life but as much as possible when they are young. What my question is though, right from the time my dog gave birth to her puppies she never minded the cats being there, either watching the birth or laying beside her whelping box. Now she doesn't even mind if they come in and still cuddle up to her ( my bitch and cats have always slept nuzzled into eachother) however, whenever my male dog approaches she gets very leary. Why?
And is there something I should know about this?

And okay I lied I have another question :). As far as I understand it takes a few days for the puppies ears to open so they can hear. How many days approximatley is this? When I run the vacuum I am sure they would be able to feel the vibrations through the floor... so when they hear the vacuum will they put two and two together? Also regarding children being around the puppies (besides my own) what age is the best age for this? As I know children often carry alot of cold bugs around and is this okay for the puppies? I want them to be very well socialized. I always take my dogs with me everywhere I can. My bitch can be put in anywhere with any other friendly animal and be totally trustworthy AND confident. And my bitch has only ever been scared once ( which is a really funny story for another time). She was well stimulated and I want to do the same for her puppies. I know it is a lifelong process to constantly stimulate your dogs, but the right start is the best start and that's what I really want to achieve. Any more ideas or ways to help accomplish this would be awesome.

Thanks!

It's difficult to keep my cat, Stinky, OUT of a room containing puppies... he's fascinated by them.

As long as your bitch is comfortable with the kitties in the room/around the whelping box, it's great for the pups. I would keep the door closed to the room, however, and keep your male out of there. Priority ONE is keeping your bitch comfortable in the whelping box/room, so you don't find yourself looking under the house for puppies in Canada in January. ;) I'd let the kids look in and help you when you're dealing with the pups, but have them leave mama at peace otherwise as well, for the first 2 weeks. She doesn't need to be worrying if you've picked safe enough of a haven for her to have her litter. Keep in mind, the pups are born blind and deaf, but they can see light, feel vibrations, and SMELL. One thing I did with the last litter I whelped, I would place old tshirts in the garage, in the van, etc... and then bring them into the whelping box for the pups to smell while mama was out doing her business.

They were placed on different surfaces as young as a week of age. They were placed in an inch or so of tepid water at 2 weeks. Now, all of this was done for a matter of a few seconds at a time - remember, you want to stimulate the pups, not scare the bejesus out of them. ;)

Once pups are being weaned onto food (around 3-4 weeks), I slowly introduced rauckus sounds.... like banging on the side of the whelping box at meal time, then introduced loud voices - by the time the pups were 5 weeks old, I could let out a shrill scream, and they'd all come falling over each other to get to me. (dinner time).

Pots and pans in the other room, being dropped on the floor.... praise the pups for NOT fleeing.... or when they recover from the scare. They figure out pretty fast what does not kill you makes you more confident. ;) Again, don't make a symphony of it, but a drop of an object which makes noise once a day is a wonderful thing.

Music. I would take the pups one at a time, and carry them through the house, and they heard everything from Pavarotti to Ozzy. Like Gretchen said, start low on the volume, and crank it up as time goes by.

Once they're a little older, in addition to Ann and Gretchen's suggestions, Home Depot and Lowe's are great for socializing young pups. (Not as many other animals as PetSmart - where you don't know if folks have their dog's vaccinated).... take them one or two at a time... puppies are a people magnet... before you know it, your pups have been around 1000's of people before they've even left your home.

You'll know when a pup is unsure, or stressing too much, so do everything in moderation. A few seconds at a time to start with.

As Ann said, it gets pretty challenging to find new sights, sounds, smells after a few weeks, but it's a fun game! It's amazing to watch the little ones conquer and destroy!!!

Once the pups are on solid kibble, you can toss the kibble around on the floor, and they'll search it out, and forage for it. I think this is excellent, as it gets them "hunting" for their food.

You can also pretty much have them potty trained by the time they leave your home. This will make your puppy buyers LOVE you, and it eases the relationship building a lot in the new home, if the buyers aren't constantly cleaning up puppy poop. :)

When you get ready to place your pups, talk to the buyers and explain exactly like Gretchen did.... all your hard work can go down the drain, if THEY don't do their part to keep the socialization going. That's not what you're after. :)

Hope this helps!

[Wolvie]

This links have been very informative.
Thank you very much.

[K-9Girl]

Great post full of great information....Thanks for posting.

Sara

[bcarlsen]

Thank you x 1000!!! We are beginning a search for a Rottie puppy. Already having had experience and the frustration of "empty" wombs and re-breedings and w-a-i-t-i-n-g, we are starting now. I hope that our efforts pay off within the next year and a half.

LOVED these links; have printed the info out and copied to a disk for future reference for myself and other dog lovers.

I also appreciate the note that overpriced does NOT mean well socialized/reared pups. All this info can make looking for a great pup, even a companion pup, a bit more complicated but in the long run a LOT LESS complicated than dealing with shy, fearful or aggressive dogs.

You can be sure that I'll be cruising some Shows and trials this spring and summer, and now I'll have some great questions to ask too!


[I decided to post this information after contacting a breeder, recently, who was selling very overpriced pups. After asking this breeder 3 questions, I surmised that the only socialization the litter had the benefit of, was hearing a garage door open and close a couple of times a day. I don't care HOW stable the dam and sire are, this is a recipe for fearful pups that become fearful dogs, which with our breed, is a recipe for disaster.

...

Not only is this information helpful to breeders - it's very good information for the buyer as well. Not every breeder will perform every exercise on a litter of pups, but, as a buyer, you want to make sure that the litter from which you buy has had the benefit of good stimulation. By reading the following links, you, as a buyer, will be able to question breeders about the methods of socialization they use on a litter.

[alexav]

Very nice post! Articles marked as favorites and printed out.

I had the unfortunate opportunity to see first hand what happens when pups are totally deprived of socialization and imprinting. :(

A litter of 7 week old Australian Shepherds that were born in a storage shed. They were "old enough for their shots and up for sale" so they were brought to the clinic. OMG, it was the most pathetic thing I have seen in a long while. These pups were practically feral! They literally spasmed with fear response when handled. Yeah, they'll make great pets for the unsuspecting...

Conversely, Max was raised with excellent care and attention to socialization. Positive exposure to cats, horses, water, and on top of that, a new building was being built on the breeder's property so the pups had all the power tool noises, hammering, and a constant stream of strange people interacting with the pups. The results are wonderful! This guy is unflappable!

[JonandMichelle]

Although I am not a breeder, Pooh's post has a TON of info for the owner as well. Gives such insight and understanding. Thank you pooh, Ann and Gretchen for sharing your much valued education with us all. Truly all was amazing reads!!

[LORHEL]

I can't stress the importance to the newer folks, If I had read up on this prior to, I might not have had the heartbreak I did. However, can't go back only forward, and this is critical to any new rottweiler owner, or potential owner. Thanks for putting it out there.