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#1
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| What is correct socialization? I posted a question in Behavior and everybody says he needs correct socialization. Now every single day I take Rage out to a new place and he meets new people. He comes to all my baseball games with me knows all my friends and has never been even the slightest bit aggresive with any one. ( Sometimes he mouths me and my son but is always corrected with a firm grip over his muzzle and a stern "no") The problem is that when at home he barks and growls when someone is approaching and when they get close he retreats until we greet them. Everyone has said more and proper socialization but what more should I be doing? |
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#2
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| Very good question Dolphinz. Here is an extract of an article I wrote for a magazine that gives a socialisation exercise and how it should be worked. "Socialization Technique: Clearly with a pup moving away from the whelping box etc at this time a lot of its socialization will be done with little to no human interaction at all. However, when the owner of the dog is involved there are certain techniques and rules that should be followed to help make sure all socialization conducted is effective and positive. Many different techniques exist. This is the one that I use and recommend. Firstly we must find an object that we wish to socialize the pup with. We then place the pup at a distance were it can see the object but is in no way showing signs of being nervous of it. Signs of being nervous can include cowering, ears back against the head, hair on back up, backing away from the object, barking at the object, growling at the object etc. When we reach the point were the pup is relaxed but curious of the object we allow the pup to become comfortable with where it is in its surroundings. (It is better if we are outside the back yard etc to already have the dog on and used to the lead and collar). Then we encourage the pup to move towards the object (tapping the ground in front of the pup, calling it forward etc not pushing the dog to move). With every forward step we praise the pup. If we see the pup become fearful we ignore the pup and if it wants to we allow it to move away from the object. This is where most mistakes are made. Many people will force a pup to hold its position. This is only creating greater anxiety within the pup as it feels that the option to run is taken away which encourages the feeling that it cannot escape the situation. Also many more people at this time will speak to their pup in a soft tone saying “It’s all right Fido, good boy (or Girl), it OK” (or similar). This is effectively praising the dog and encouraging the pup to show this sort of fearful behavior more often. The best option is to just ignore the pup. Allow it to move back and get itself comfortable and relaxed and then encourage forward motion. When it moves forward praise it once again. Quickly the pup will learn that forward motion gains praise and will move forward. With every successful encounter the pup will grow in confidence and learn to investigate new things. Don’t be in to bigger rush. Allow the pup to take things slowly. It does not matter if it takes several repetitions to get a pup to meet or touch the new object. If you see real improvement in the pup with the object then finish for the day and start again another time." This is by no means total but the technique can be used in all socialisation exercises. In particular to your case what I would do is invite friends over and be out with the dog when they come. Have him on lead and deside you away from the gate. As the people aproach the gate if he barks negative mark the behavior and move him even further away from the gate. If he is calm or when he calms down then praise him and move him forward. When you see him once again become aggitatored by them (what for hair up, the body to stiffen, the stance to open, his front legs pointing in a backwards direction, growling etc) then stop and take him a step or two back. Once he again calms praise him once again and move him forward (praise can include food). Keep watching for him to become fearful, stop until he calms. When he gets close to the person have them give him some food. He will learn that people coming into the yard are a good thing. To help him reduce the threat he feels towards these people have the person turn their back on him and squat down (less threat when people have their back to the dogs and have less size). I hope that this helps. Take your time and try to get several repatitions. Over time his perception of people entering the yard will change. He sounds like he has a slight thin nerve that is perpetuated in the form of territorial fear/aggression. In the yard he will feel he has less room to move away from the threat and must defend if possible. Keep up your good work on the street also. The more the better. With some work he will improve quickly and be a better dog for it. Hope that this helps. Feel free to ask any further questions if you have any, in general or to something I have written above, Mick. |
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#3
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| It doesn't get any better than that! Would it be possible to get the magazine with the article or a copy of the article?
__________________ Most people when they come to you for advice come to have their own opinions strengthened, not corrected. - Henry Wheeler Shaw - When a dog runs at you, whistle for him. - Henry David Thoreau - |
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#5
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| Great explanation Mick... ;)
__________________ Control and obedience is directly proportional to a dog’s freedom. |
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#6
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| Thanks.
__________________ Most people when they come to you for advice come to have their own opinions strengthened, not corrected. - Henry Wheeler Shaw - When a dog runs at you, whistle for him. - Henry David Thoreau - |
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