Moka is starting to chew!!!!

[MOKASMOM]

Hey everyone I need alittle advice here. Moka will be 10months this month and she is starting to chew on things. Last month she chewed my baseboard in the house up. And now she chewed up my comforter. Mind you she is doing this stuff while I am at work. But my mom is home with her all day. I personally think it's separation anxiety. The thing is that I dont make a big deal when I leave and usually when I come home from work she is in her cage and I wait for 15 minutes be4 I let her out. I don't know what to do cause like I said I am at work so I can not correct her and my mother puts her in her cage to settle her down. If anyone could give me any suggestions on what to do it would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You,

P.S. Does anyone think it could be her molars comming in cause she never did this be4?

[babybluetx23]

here are a few things that may help:

#1: Cayanne Pepper, Bitter Apple Spray, or some type of pet deterant:
This will keep the dog from chewing on Baseboards, furniture, ect. As for the comforter, If it is in the bedroom, dont allow the dog in the bedroom, Use a baby gate or close the door. Anything that you dont want the dog to chew on (That you are able to move such as blankets, pillows, ect) move to another room behind a baby gate or closed door.
#2: Constant supervision or crating. You mentioned that your mom watches the dog while you are at work. I dont know if you mean, she stops by every few hours or if she is there with the dog the entire time you are gone. If she stops by every few hours, I would suggest you keep the dog crated when someone is unable to supervise. If your mother is there to suervise the entire day, have your mother actually watch the dog the ENTIRE time she is there. As soon as she is chewing on something the dog is NOT allowed to chew on, have your mother give the dog a FIRM "NO" And then hand the dog something she is ALLOWED to chew on.
#3: Have plenty of toys the dog IS allowed to chew on such as a stuffed kong, a nylabone, ect. Rotties tend to get bored and find ways to entertain themselves, so give them something entertaining such as a kong filled with all kinds of goodies! For a longer entertainment period, stuff the kong with all kinds of yummy goodies and then stick it in the freezer overnight! (http://www.kongcompany.com/how2use.html)
Those are just a few ideas that may work for you.

[MOKASMOM]

Originally Posted by babybluetx23

here are a few things that may help:

#1: Cayanne Pepper, Bitter Apple Spray, or some type of pet deterant:
This will keep the dog from chewing on Baseboards, furniture, ect. As for the comforter, If it is in the bedroom, dont allow the dog in the bedroom, Use a baby gate or close the door. Anything that you dont want the dog to chew on (That you are able to move such as blankets, pillows, ect) move to another room behind a baby gate or closed door.
#2: Constant supervision or crating. You mentioned that your mom watches the dog while you are at work. I dont know if you mean, she stops by every few hours or if she is there with the dog the entire time you are gone. If she stops by every few hours, I would suggest you keep the dog crated when someone is unable to supervise. If your mother is there to suervise the entire day, have your mother actually watch the dog the ENTIRE time she is there. As soon as she is chewing on something the dog is NOT allowed to chew on, have your mother give the dog a FIRM "NO" And then hand the dog something she is ALLOWED to chew on.
#3: Have plenty of toys the dog IS allowed to chew on such as a stuffed kong, a nylabone, ect. Rotties tend to get bored and find ways to entertain themselves, so give them something entertaining such as a kong filled with all kinds of goodies! For a longer entertainment period, stuff the kong with all kinds of yummy goodies and then stick it in the freezer overnight! (http://www.kongcompany.com/how2use.html)
Those are just a few ideas that may work for you.

Hey Babybluetx23,

Thanks for the response. We have used bitter apple but she actually likes the stuff and as far as chayanne pepper she also likes that too. Sometimes I think she is a mexican Rottie :D .

As far as toys she has many toys. We have marrow bones, tennis balls, kongs, and nylabones. She plays with all of them.

My mom is home with her all day until 3pm when she leaves for work. Then Moka goes in the cage when she leaves. My mom tries to keep on eye on here as much as possible. But I think I will start closing my bedroom door from now on. Either that or she will have to start being crated during the day cause she has broken trust with me. I understand she is a young pup but I never had these problems at all while she was teething. She never chewed up the furniture or bedding she was actually a very good pup. Now she is pushing my buttons and testing me.

Thank You

[babybluetx23]

Originally Posted by MOKASMOM

Now she is pushing my buttons and testing me.
Thank You

THIS is when you need to really keep on top of her and not LET her do it. I know it is happening while you are at work, but if she can not be supervised at all times then she needs to be crated. Dont crate her when she is being bad, A crate is not a place you want your pup to associate with as punishment.
If cayanne and Bitter apple arent working, Im not sure what else you can use to deter the behavior other then 24/7 supervision or crating.

Anyone else have any ideas?

[MOKASMOM]

I also have to add that she is still in training. We have training once a week for 1 hour. Everyday we train for about a half hour a day. I try to walk to 2xs a day but it can only be for 15 minutes as she does have Pano and was diagnosed with HD. So we are limited right now on the excerise part. If she does to much excerise she will whine and cry when she tries to get up.

[Brooke&Ryan]

Argh, I know what you're talking about.

Julius is a good guy & I loooove him to death. When he was a little puppy he NEVER chewed on anything but his toys or bones. Then right around 10-11 months he started gnawing on things that he shouldn't have been. Everyone on the boards said that chewing would kick in & I never believed it. Not my dog... :D

So if Julius could not be supervised he would go into his crate. I would suggest that for your mom. If she cannot watch Moka completely then I would suggest that she go into the crate. Or maybe you could suggest that maybe she could attach Moka to her belt loop with a leash. I would just say that supervision is the key.

Julius initiated himself in the "chewing club" by munching off the corner of our one kitchen cabinet. Oy! :D

Good luck & I feel your pain.

:)
Brooke

[babybluetx23]

here is something I found out there on the internet:

Buy your dog several toys he can chew on. Hard rubber balls and Kongs, sterilized bones, nylon bones, and knotted ropes are available at pet supply stores. Knotted rags and old socks and shoes are acceptable as long as the pup doesn't get confused between the discarded item and a pair of $100 Nikes or Katy's new t-shirt. Soft squeak toys are fun for small puppies and for games of fetch, but are not sturdy enough for chewing exercise for older pups.

Whenever your dog chews the wrong thing, remove her to a neutral area and give her something she's allowed to chew. No shouting, no smacks with a newspaper or hand -- just matter-of-fact corrections in a firm tone of voice. "No, that's mine, here's something for you" is appropriate.

Confine your dog to a crate when you cannot watch him. A confined pet cannot chew the furniture. Make sure he has a toy in the crate that he is allowed to chew.

Limit access to bedrooms, living rooms, etc. with baby gates and closed doors.

Teach "no bite" to eliminate attempts to chew parts of human bodies. Puppies should never be allowed to teethe on people parts. Never. Biting family members is an attempt to establish dominance. Even toy dogs try to become leader of the family pack if given the opportunity. When a fast-growing guardian breed is allowed or encouraged to mouth arms and legs, he will quickly become unruly.

If you cannot stop the pooch from biting on crawling babies and toddlers, separate kids and dog. Don't fall for the old "he really doesn't mean it" when Ranger nips or growls at the kids. It doesn't matter what he meant -- he's not allowed to put his teeth on babies. Ever.

Puppies that are allowed to rule the roost with teeth and growl will turn into dogs that do the same.

Join the in a game of retrieve or Frisbee. Be sure to teach "bring it" and "give it" so you don't end up chasing Duke through several counties to get the ball back. These commands come in handy when the pup steals Mary's slippers or snitches an ornament off the Christmas tree as well.

Each time you give the pup a toy or treat, say "take it" before he puts it in his mouth. Grabbing is not allowed. When Bandit has mastered "sit," he should do so before the toy or food is offered.

Put your dog on a leash to teach the retrieve game so you can guide her back and get the ball. Grasp the ball firmly with one hand, open her mouth by placing the other hand over her muzzle and pushing in on her lips to protect your fingers from her teeth. Say "give" and open her mouth to remove the toy.

Don't be intimidated by puppy growling and don't overreact. As your dog learns the appropriate responses, the growling will cease.

Use discipline, not punishment for infractions of the rules. A stern "no" or "quit it". Puppies should never be hit.

Be persistent and consistent. If it was wrong yesterday, it's wrong today.

The millions of dogs destroyed at animal shelters are testimony to the myth that good relationships with dogs develop automatically. You can avoid many of the behavior problems that often result in abandonment if by doing some basic training to teach Rover to inhibit his bite reflex.

In most cases, destructive chewing by puppies is nothing more than normal puppy behavior. Adult dogs, however, can exhibit destructive behaviors for a variety of reasons, which can occasionally be the cause of chewing problems in puppies, as well. Examples include separation anxiety, fear-related behaviors and attention-getting behavior.

Separation anxiety is usually seen in younger dogs, especially when these pets are adopted from an animal shelter. It is not commonly seen in middle-aged dogs, although dogs that develop separation anxiety at a very young age may be at greater risk for recurrences later in life.

Signs of separation anxiety can range from mild to severe:

Distress vocalization—howling, barking, whining

Inappropriate elimination—urination, defecation

Destructive behavior—chewing, digging

Anorexia/ “depression” or inactivity

Psychosomatic/medical consequences—excessive licking of haircoat, pacing,

circling

Hyperattachment—excessive greeting behavior, constant pestering of owner

Hypersalivation

The behaviors associated with separation anxiety often occur within a short period of time after the animal is left alone, a unique feature which distinguishes separation anxiety from other behavioral disorders. A thorough history and physical examination (including blood tests) are needed to definitively diagnose separation anxiety and rule out other medical or behavioral differential diagnoses.

[lblax]

Originally Posted by MOKASMOM

Hey Babybluetx23,

Thanks for the response. We have used bitter apple but she actually likes the stuff and as far as chayanne pepper she also likes that too. Sometimes I think she is a mexican Rottie :D .

i personally have never seen any substance that a dog would not lick off

[MOKASMOM]

[quote=babybluetx23]here is something I found out there on the internet:





Signs of separation anxiety can range from mild to severe:

Distress vocalization—howling, barking, whining

Destructive behavior—chewing, digging

Anorexia/ “depression” or inactivity

Psychosomatic/medical consequences—excessive licking of haircoat, pacing,

circling

Hyperattachment—excessive greeting behavior, constant pestering of owner


This is all of what Moka does. So does this mean something? Just wondering.

[babybluetx23]

Then it sounds like Seperation Anxiety to me. Here is another Item I found on the internet. I need to do this myself. My Pup is starting to do the SAME THINGS!!! hehehehe He Barks as soon as I leave a room, He chews on his wire Crate (I can see the chew marks in the crate, and he will eliminate in his crate sometimes)

separation anxiety can be treated and prevented with a little understanding and some consistent training. To treat separation anxiety, you first must understand what it is and where it stems from.

Dogs by nature are pack animals that are not prepared to cope with isolation. They were not born with instinctive tools that allow them to deal with loneliness, so they must be taught how to be alone and reassured that they will not be alone for long. Some dogs adapt to periods of isolation on their own, while other dogs spiral into destructive behavioral problems in an attempt to cope with being solitary for any period of time.

Think carefully about your dog's behavior as you answer these questions:

• Does destructive behavior occur only when you are away?
• Does your dog frequently eliminate when you leave the house?
• Does your dog become stressed and worried as you prepare to depart?
• Does he whine, howl or bark shortly after you leave?

If the answer to three or more questions is yes, your dog's behavior is most likely being brought on by separation anxiety. In order to treat this disorder with success, it is necessary to make a daily training commitment.

If your dog is so anxious that he always has to be at your side when you are home, this is the first place you need to begin breaking the anxiety cycle. By working with a simple sit-stay command, you can ease your dog into brief sessions of separation by requiring him to sit and stay in one room while you briefly retreat to another. Over the course of several days, you can vary the time of your return, but the key is to help your dog learn that you are always coming back. Also, it is important not to make an issue out of returning; rather, greet the dog quietly or even ignore him for a few minutes till he calms down.

The next step is to begin to leave the house by going to the mailbox or the front yard for a few minutes. Some dogs can be eased into this; others may require the aid of anti-anxiety medication, such as Elavil or Buspar, prescribed by your veterinarian. If you think your dog would make greater strides in his training with the help of brief medication, you should consult with your veterinarian. It is important to keep in mind, though, that if you choose to medicate your dog, abruptly stopping medication can lead to a relapse of anxious behavior, so you will have to wean your dog off of the medication while continuing your training regimen.

Another important practice is to never return to the house if your dog is barking or crying. Rather, return only when he has quieted down. If your dog learns that he can make you return by being vocal, he may never accept being left alone.

Once your dog is able to tolerate separation for an hour or more, you should be able to make the jump to longer absences with greater ease. And if your dog has a relapse and you come home to find that he has acted out in your absence, do not punish or isolate him, because it will only serve to increase his anxiety and worsen the problem. Instead, ignore the situation if possible and be understanding. Remember, he is only acting out because of fear and anxiety.

It is good practice to always leave him with appropriate chew items and fresh water. And if you are away in the evening, a lamp left on and the soft grumble of a TV or radio will also go a long way toward calming his fears.

Canine separation anxiety is a tough hurdle for dog and owner, but together you can conquer his fears and help your dog relax into the happy companion you always dreamed he'd be.

[MOKASMOM]

Originally Posted by babybluetx23

Then it sounds like Seperation Anxiety to me. Here is another Item I found on the internet. I need to do this myself. My Pup is starting to do the SAME THINGS!!! hehehehe He Barks as soon as I leave a room, He chews on his wire Crate (I can see the chew marks in the crate, and he will eliminate in his crate sometimes)

separation anxiety can be treated and prevented with a little understanding and some consistent training. To treat separation anxiety, you first must understand what it is and where it stems from.

Dogs by nature are pack animals that are not prepared to cope with isolation. They were not born with instinctive tools that allow them to deal with loneliness, so they must be taught how to be alone and reassured that they will not be alone for long. Some dogs adapt to periods of isolation on their own, while other dogs spiral into destructive behavioral problems in an attempt to cope with being solitary for any period of time.

Think carefully about your dog's behavior as you answer these questions:

• Does destructive behavior occur only when you are away?
• Does your dog frequently eliminate when you leave the house?
• Does your dog become stressed and worried as you prepare to depart?
• Does he whine, howl or bark shortly after you leave?

If the answer to three or more questions is yes, your dog's behavior is most likely being brought on by separation anxiety. In order to treat this disorder with success, it is necessary to make a daily training commitment.

If your dog is so anxious that he always has to be at your side when you are home, this is the first place you need to begin breaking the anxiety cycle. By working with a simple sit-stay command, you can ease your dog into brief sessions of separation by requiring him to sit and stay in one room while you briefly retreat to another. Over the course of several days, you can vary the time of your return, but the key is to help your dog learn that you are always coming back. Also, it is important not to make an issue out of returning; rather, greet the dog quietly or even ignore him for a few minutes till he calms down.

The next step is to begin to leave the house by going to the mailbox or the front yard for a few minutes. Some dogs can be eased into this; others may require the aid of anti-anxiety medication, such as Elavil or Buspar, prescribed by your veterinarian. If you think your dog would make greater strides in his training with the help of brief medication, you should consult with your veterinarian. It is important to keep in mind, though, that if you choose to medicate your dog, abruptly stopping medication can lead to a relapse of anxious behavior, so you will have to wean your dog off of the medication while continuing your training regimen.

Another important practice is to never return to the house if your dog is barking or crying. Rather, return only when he has quieted down. If your dog learns that he can make you return by being vocal, he may never accept being left alone.

Once your dog is able to tolerate separation for an hour or more, you should be able to make the jump to longer absences with greater ease. And if your dog has a relapse and you come home to find that he has acted out in your absence, do not punish or isolate him, because it will only serve to increase his anxiety and worsen the problem. Instead, ignore the situation if possible and be understanding. Remember, he is only acting out because of fear and anxiety.

It is good practice to always leave him with appropriate chew items and fresh water. And if you are away in the evening, a lamp left on and the soft grumble of a TV or radio will also go a long way toward calming his fears.

Canine separation anxiety is a tough hurdle for dog and owner, but together you can conquer his fears and help your dog relax into the happy companion you always dreamed he'd be.

Thank You!!!! This was a great post.

[babybluetx23]

If you do a search on seperation anxiety on rott.net you may find some REALLY good advise. Here is a link to another thread that has some really good info about seperation anxiety - http://www.rottweiler.net/forums/sho...ration+anxiety

[judrops]

Hi,
Our dog, Kai is in the 'chewing club' too! He is 11 months old and only started to chew at around 10 months! He has chewed his way through our back garden fencing - causing us to fork out £1000 for concrete fencing , then he decided to have a go at the door frames, now he is enjoying trying to chew through my cupboards, especially the knobs.
We have given him loads of toys and bones etc, done the water spray idea, told him off etc etc all to no avail. So, now we are taking the Hannibal Lecter approach - he is muzzled whenever we go out and whenever we catch him actually doing the dirty deed. :D The muzzle is the kind that allows him to pant and drink water etc, so it is perfectly safe for him and only cost £8 and IT WORKS!!!!!!!!
We've given Kai a club card so he can pay off his debt to us!! :D
Julie.x

[Brooke&Ryan]

Or a crate works like a charm....

:)
Brooke

[judrops]

However, a muzzle is cheaper and ideal for the smaller home.
:D
Julie.x