| Firslty let me start by saying that I agree that the above replies are sound as a method etc it is not the way in which I would train the out, especially with such a dog. Your dog clearly sees you as the adversary in the contest for the sleeve as he feels that he is loosing his prize.
Ok you have the advantage as you are training Personal Protection as apposed from sport training in making the training more real life and being able to train with a sleeve on each arm etc. Too this end I would have the helper do sleeve too sleeve work teaching the out in this process which will help take the conflict between you and the dog away. The way in this would be done would be to have your dog do an online bite. Have the helper keep facing the dog but let the arm go dead (his arm is in it but not really doing anything). The helper then places the other sleeve directly above the dogs head about 3-4 inches in hieght. Then give your dog on out command. Whilst the other arm in dead and is above his head the dog will soon place his focus onto the other sleeve and will soon take a bite. Keep repeating this excercise until the dog will let go automatically and take the other bite.
Then do the same thing again but have the helper slip the first sleeve till he holds it at the end with the other sleeve over the dogs head. At this time the dog is learning that if s/he outs he will get another bite. From here you move too a full slip. The dog will soon leanr too out.
From here you then move on to him outing and then the helper moves back and the dog can go back into his hold and bark.
This technique will teach the out without the conflict between you and the dog as well as teaching it with a clearer head (always teach tehniques like this with as little conflict between you and the dog as possible and in it's predatory mind set). Many, many times the strength is lost from the H&B due to poor training from the out. Once the dog outs well a correction can be added to really clean it up. However this will teach the basis of what is expected of him as well as placing the power of his covictions onto the helper.
To further this you can also add conflict later to help load the dog to add aggression in the H&B. This is another thread however. For me a dog must show strength in the H&B and should out to show active aggression.
I hope that this helps and is clear enough. There is a lot more too this but it is too long for me too write whilst I am this tired. Maybe another day. ;) If you use sleeve to sleeve work you should be able to reduce the conflict and stop the growling in only a few sessions. Do be careful not to do too much prey work. Using sleeves to train you dog in Personal Protection is not a problem (there is too much emphasis in equipment in PP these days which shows too me that not enough people know what they are doing) but he must get a wake up call every now and again just too make sure he realises that what he is doing is a serious business. Save your siut, muzzle and undercover arm work for this sort of senario, too test your dog is doing what he should in the real world.
Mick.  |